Welcome to Vaping Hardware’s Coil Wrap Calculator!
Experimenting with a double, triple or quad coil build? Itching to try a parallel, twisted or even flat ribbon coil? Whatever build you’re after, our Coil Wrap Calculator has you covered!
We’ve also included a few frequently asked questions at the bottom of the page.
|Number of Wraps|
|Rounded to Full Wraps|
|Rounded to Half Wraps|
|Resistance of Each Coil|
|Resistance of Build Deck|
|Surface Area of Coil|
|Current Drain from Battery|
|Vaping Power @ 4.2V|
A typical coil build resistance usually ranges from around 0.1ohms to 2.5ohms.
However, this is always dependent on the mod and/or tank you’re using. It’s important you stick within the safe range your device can handle!
Personally, we think a great starting range would be something like 0.5ohms to 1ohm. Anything on that scale should give you great flavor and vapor! As long as you know how to wick properly of course…
Although you don’t actually NEED that much to build a coil, there are literally dozens of tools, supplies and gadgets we could list here!
In terms of the basics, you’ll need a length of resistance wire, a screwdriver ( or drill bit!) and a pair of cutters. Quick tip though; a good pair of clean nail clippers work just as well!
Needle nose pliers (or tweezers in a pinch) are also important to shape your coil after you’ve installed it.
Finally, you might also need a metre to test your Ohms, although most mods will tell you the coil resistance.
To make life easier, there are plenty of coil building kits available with everything you could need and then some! We really recommend this one here from Amazon, it’s a great kit at a really decent price.
This depends completely on what type of coil you’re building, your target resistance and even how much flavor you want from your coil.
We’d usually suggest sticking to around 6 wraps as this will give you a good cross sectional surface area with decent flavor.
Ultimately it’s down to personal preference, just experiment to see what works best for you.
The macro coil is any type of coil with an inner diameter larger than 2mm.
This micro coil is any type of coil with an inner diameter of less than 2mm.
Both Macro and Micro are forms of ‘contact’ coils, which basically mean they’re tightly wrapped, with each coil wrap touching those on either side of it.
As opposed to a ‘spaced’ coil which is exactly what it sounds like; the vape coil wraps are spaced evenly with a slight gap between each.
As the name suggests, this is simply a coil placed flat on your build deck, running between the deck posts.
Some people now consider this ‘old hat’ as the popularity of vertical coils has increased.
However, this method was the standard back in the early days of DIY vape coil building and is a design we still use to this day.
Personally, we prefer this method as we notice less ‘spitback’ from these when compared with vertical coils.
Choosing between vertical and horizontal coils will often depend on your atomiser, the position and shape of your air holes and the layout of the build deck.
The norm for stock coils, this is basically a standing coil situated in the centre of your build deck reaching toward the top of your atomiser.
The vertical coil can be wicked on either the inside or outside, which is more commonly known as a ‘chimney’ coil.
These coils have gained popularity, due to the improved airflow and flavor as more of the coil surface area is in contact with the wick.
A half wrap refers to the coil legs pointing in the same direction.
A full wrap refers to the coil legs pointing in opposite directions.
As with any coil you build, it’s always vital that you test it before you fire it.
Use an Ohm reader to make sure that the resistance is roughly where you want it. This should help prevent any nasty surprises or a ‘short’ when you fire the mod for the first time.
This is never more important than when using an unregulated mod (Mechanical), a direct short to ground/earth could be dangerous.
We don’t have an option for making Clapton coils just yet but this is coming soon! In the meantime, we do have a ‘workaround’ that will work just as well…
The outer wrap of a Clapton is fairly insignificant with respect to the core wrap in terms of resistance. By inputting just the core wire profile and AWG you’ll be getting a roughly similar result.
Likewise, for a Fused Clapton which has two cores and an outer wrap, input the two core wire profiles and AWG by selecting ‘Round Parallel 2 Strand’. Although not exact, this will give you the approximate info you need!
Yes, our calculator will work out the required wraps for any type of wire. Simply select ‘Custom’ and the menu will change allowing you to input the wire diameter and resistance per meter of your specific wire type. This information can often be found on the wire wheel or manufacturer’s specifications.
This is the power your mod will produce based on the coil you’ve built. However, it’s really only useful when using an unregulated mod (mechanical) on a fully charged battery (4.2V). If you’re using a regulated mod you can select whatever power you want via the wattage settings on your device.
Kanthal A1 and Nichrome N80 are the two types of wire used for Variable Wattage mode only. Stainless Steel (316) can be used in either Variable Wattage or Temperature Control (TC) mode.
Nickel NI200 and Titanium wire can both be used in Temperature Control mode. Stainless Steel (316) can be used in either Temperature Control or Variable Wattage mode.
This is the current being drained from your battery based on the coil you’ve built. However, it’s really only useful when you’re using an unregulated mod (mechanical) on a fully charged battery (4.2V). If you’re using a regulated mod you can check the correct battery current drain using our Battery Amp Draw/Drain Calculator.
Basically this is just the size of the ‘inside’ of your coil. To wrap a coil, you’ll need either a drill bit, a screwdriver or (ideally!) a coil jig to wrap the wire around. The size of whatever you use dictates the inner coil diameter.
When you wind your coil, this is the ‘clipped’ length of the open straight ends of the coil that are inserted into the deck posts of your tank. They should be kept to a minimum. The tail lead length is the total length of the two ends.
Target resistance is the resistance you want your coil/deck to be. Build deck configuration is how many coils you want to place into the deck. If your building for a single deck/coil then select single and specify what you want your resistance to be. If you’re building a dual coil/deck configuration, then select dual and specify the overall deck resistance. The resistance of each coil will be twice that of the deck resistance. i.e. 2 x 3ohm coils will be 1.5ohm deck resistance.
AWG stands for American Wire Gauge. It is the standard measurement for the thickness of the wire. SWG is the UK equivalent but is not used. AWG is printed on all spools of wire.
Hopefully by now you’ve built yourself an awesome coil or two! If you’ve had any problems with the Coil Wrap Calculator, please see the user guide here.
If you’ve got any questions or feedback then please feel free to drop us a comment at the bottom of the page. We’re really grateful for all the positive feedback we’ve had so far, thank you!
If you’d like to share this calculator then please hit one of the share buttons below.
Share our Calculator