Welcome to Vaping Hardware’s Vaping Glossary!
Whether you’re new to the vaping scene or a veteran vaper, you’ve no doubt come across a few vaping terms that have left you scratching your head in confusion!
To help you avoid looking like a ‘newb’ at the vape store, we’ve created this detailed vaping glossary to keep you up to date with the latest vaping terms!
If you want to jump ahead to a specific term in the Vaping Glossary, feel free to use the below links. Otherwise, let’s get started!
# A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P R S T U V W
A battery measuring 18mm in diameter and 35mm in length. Used in smaller mods, they generally have a low amp rating.
Slightly larger than 18350’s, with a longer battery life. Not as popular as the 18350’s due to the trade off in size verses mAh. Think buying a bigger wallet that only just fits in your jacket pocket all for the sake of one extra credit card compartment…
The battery size that has become the benchmark and market standard for APVs. 18mm in diameter and 65mm in length. A regular Li-ion type was the standard before the current Li-Mn and hybrid types became fully established. Only the latter two modern types should be used now. Basic Li-ion cells (Li-Co), whether protected or not, are obsolete and should not be used in an APV.
A newer sized battery recently introduced and used in mechanical mods and more advanced box mods. Another high amp output battery, typically higher than the standard 18650 battery. The 20700 measures 20mm in diameter and 70mm in length.
A slightly larger version of the 20700, measuring 21mm in diameter. This is becoming the go to battery because of its higher capacity and higher current output. Some APV’s now accept these larger batteries while also including an 18650 battery adaptor giving the user the choice of which sized battery they wish to use. Typical output of these batteries are 35A 4200mAh.
A battery used in large-format Advanced Personal Vaporisers (APV), especially mechanical mods. They provide a high amp output with less voltage drop than smaller size batteries. Measuring 26mm in diameter and 50mm in length. Because of its increased capacity it’ll last longer before needing to be recharged. Typically used by sub-ohm vapers using a resistance of less than 1ohm.
The most popular style of threading for electronic cigarettes. Originally developed by the company JoyE, it quickly became the standard within the industry. It’s the male thread on the tank and female thread on the mod.
An atomiser with a female thread. It’s not compatible with 510 threading.
Acrolein is produced when e-liquid is heated to incredibly high temperatures. Linked to lung cancer in analogue cigarette use. Also a strong irritant to skin, eyes and nasal passages.
A dual threaded device used to allow a specific style or atomiser, clearomiser or tank onto a different style battery. This allows vapers to have the vapour production of one style of atomiser, while using the battery life of another style battery – (example: connecting a 901 atomiser threading onto a 510 battery).
Advanced Personal Vaporiser (APV):
Essentially just another term for electronic cigarettes… Generally used to describe devices with a larger battery and features such as variable voltage or variable wattage. Also referred to as a modified e-cigarette (mod).
This refers to the variable Air Flow Control, generally found at the base of the clearomiser/tank. It’s used to amend the inhale or ‘draw’ of the e-cigarette. Some drip tips also now come with air flow control as an additional feature. More recently, some tanks and RTA’s are now utilising “Top” airflow control which significantly improves e-liquid seepage from the tank.
Airflow (adjustable airflow):
Adjustable airflow is available on most (if not all!) current atomisers/clearomisers and allows for more air to be pulled through during a ‘draw’. Adjusting the airflow can have a significant difference on vapour and flavour production!
All Day Vape:
A common term used to describe a specific e-liquid flavour that rocks your world! Basically a flavour you could happily vape all day!
American Wire Gauge (AWG):
This is the standard used in the United States to determine the resistance and diameter of the electric wire used to create the coil in your atomiser. All wire in the vaping community is specified as having an AWG value anywhere in the world.
Amperage is the flow of energy along a given circuit. In APV’s the lower the amps, the less capable you are of using high voltages on low resistance atomisers. This is prevalent in high voltage upon low resistance atomisers in dual coil clearomisers.
A term used to describe traditional tobacco cigarettes.
A method used to seal and finish aluminium.
Aqueous Glycerine (AG):
A combination of Vegetable Glycerin (VG) and de-ionised water. AG is less viscous (thick) than ordinary VG and therefore more easily absorbed by the wick.
Atomiser (aka Atty):
The atomiser is contained in a metal housing that screws into the battery, containing the heating element and wick. It’is the component in an electronic cigarette or vaporiser that is responsible for heating the e-liquid and produces the sweet vapour we inhale!
A style of electronic cigarette/vaporiser battery that doesn’t have a button to activate the heating element. When the user draws on the mouthpiece, a special sensor within the atomiser is activated by changing air pressure.
B&M (Bricks and Mortar):
A term used to express a physical shop rather than just a web based online store.
This is the e-liquid carrier, generally consisting of either PG and/or VG.
Arguably the most important part of an electronic cigarette. It provides power to the heating element that turns the e liquid into vapour. Batteries can be either internal or external and have a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts (4.2v fully charged). Be sure to check out our guide to vaping batteries here!
A term used to describe a clearomiser in which the atomiser/coil is situated at the base. Otherwise known as ‘Bottom Coil Clearomiser’.
Same as above, except ‘Bottom Dual Coil Clearomiser’.
The circuitry of a regulated mod that allows it to fire above the applied voltage of the battery.
A box mod is any Personal Vaporiser or APV that, as its name suggests, comes in a box shape rather than a cylindrical tube.
The circuitry of a regulated mod that allows it to fire below the applied voltage.
Abbreviation for Bottom Vertical Coils. A very popular design for atomiser coils.
Any chemical, compound, or substance thought to cause cancer. E-liquid, when heated to very high temperatures can product some carcinogens, though the amount has never reached unsafe levels according to most reputable scientists and the medical professionals.
A plastic or covered metal mouthpiece that is the third part of a 3-piece set and is usually stuffed with some sort of absorbent filler material that holds e-liquid.
A cartomiser or ‘carto’ is a combination of disposable cartridges and atomisers. They don’t last as long as an atomiser but they’re also not as expensive and they hold more e-liquid than a regular cartridge/atomiser combination. The cartomiser tank is placed in the middle of the tube and is designed to hold e-liquid. It is typically made of poly-fill surrounding a type of gauze material that’s wrapped around an atomizer coil and a plastic centre tube for airflow.
Cartomiser Punch (Carto Punch):
A device used for punching holes in a cartomiser.
Cartomiser – Dual Coil:
A dual coil cartomiser that uses 2 coils. Because of its dual coil design, it’s able to produce twice as much vapour.
Cartomiser – Single Coil:
A cartomiser that uses only 1 coil. This is usually the standard.
Any Personal Vaporiser that mirrors the appearance of a traditional cigarette.
A battery charger used to recharge your vape battery once it’s drained.
The section of a clearomiser/tank that connects the coil to the drip tip/mouthpiece.
A coil made with a larger gauge of wire wrapped tightly by a smaller gauge of wire. It’s called a Clapton because it resembles a guitar string.
A clearomiser is a transparent version of a cartomiser, designed to let users know how much e-liquid they have left. Originally made of clear plastic but now mainly glass, therefore maintaining transparency. Clearomisers hold 1.8ml – 5ml of e-liquid, depending on the size and design.
Due to the highly dense water content and thick white appearance, the vapour that’s exhaled when using an electronic cigarette is often referred to as ‘clouds’.
A vaper with a preference towards thick, dense vapour ‘clouds’.
Made from wire and used to vaporise your e-liquid by creating an electrical circuit. The coil can be made from several different types of wire such as Kanthal, Nichrome, Nickel, Stainless Steel etc. The wire material, together with a specific diameter, wound around a drill bit or coil jig will determine the resistance. Take a look at out beginners guide to coil building and learn how to build the perfect coil!
A device with multiple diameter sections that makes rebuilding your own coils a hell of a lot easier!
A tool used to wrap perfectly shaped, spaced coils every time.
This is the threaded section, EGO or 510 on the mod that allows you to screw into an atomiser, clearomiser etc.
Any handmade or customised vaping device, often using everyday items not necessarily vaping related. This can even include wooden mods.
A safety feature that automatically stops you from taking a ‘draw’ on your vaping device over the pre-set time. For example, if your vaping device has a cut-off of 10 seconds, which seems to be the standard, the device will shut-off after that time. Specifically designed to prevent the atomiser from overheating. Depending on the device, there are often flashing LED lights to let you know the feature is being used.
This stands for ‘Dual Coil Tank’ and can mean either two single coils in one tank or a single coil housing with two coils in it.
The section of your RBA/RDA in which you install your coil. The deck houses the positive and negative posts that you feed your coil tails through and keeps e-liquid off the battery connection.
A chemical found in certain e-liquid flavours, usually buttery or dessert type juices. Diacetyl has been found to cause a condition known as ‘popcorn lung’ in large doses. As a result, a large number of suppliers have stopped using Diacetyl but it’s always worth checking just to be certain!
Direct To Lung (DTL)
A style of vaping, usually associated with higher power sub ohm devices with open airflow, where the user will draw on the mouthpiece at the same time as taking the vapour directly into the lungs.
Electronic cigarettes designed to be used and then thrown away rather than charged.
The terms used for juice made at home rather than store bought. Please take a look at our advanced e-liquid mixing guide for more info!
Built by a company called Evolv, the DNA is a popular variable wattage chip.
A type of coil build with the wick wrapped around the coil. Designed to increase airflow, perfect for cloud chasers!
The ‘hit’ or ‘drag’ you take from your device. Basically just the process of inhaling vapour from the drip tip of your chosen device.
Essentially just a build deck, chimney and drip tip. Build your coil(s), wick that baby (see our wicking guide here!) and drip your e-liquid directly on the atomiser. Generally, drippers provide superior flavour and vapour production.
See above! The process of dripping e-liquid directly onto your coil.
Sometimes a term used to describe a device designed to enable convenient dripping of e-liquid directly onto the atomiser. More commonly used to describe the mouthpiece of your vaping device; the section you put in your mouth to draw on and inhale vapour.
The act of firing your coil without a wick saturated in e-liquid. Why you ask? To burn off any impurities or residue, thereby ‘cleaning’ your coil!
Taking a draw on your vaping device without a properly saturated wick… Normally a sign you’ve run out of juice or your wick isn’t saturating efficiently. Either way, not a pleasant experience!
See Direct to Lung
Exactly what you’d expect; a cartomiser with two coils rather than a single coil.
E-Cigarette Forum; one of the most popular and informative vaping forums on the net. Well worth checking out, whether you’re a beginner or seasoned vaper!
Extra bits of optional vaping kit. Anything from mod skins, custom drip tips, battery wraps, you name it!
A style of electronic cigarette that uses the ego threading (see below!), normally a pen type mod.
The name given to a style of threading on your battery/electronic cigarette or connector on your vaping device. Put simply, eGo threading is a male thread that fits into the female thread on the base of your clearomiser.
Another name for e-liquid.
A wicking material made from braided silica.
Electronic Cigarette (E-Cig):
The term used to describe a personal vaporiser; a device used to vaporise a mix of Propylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Nicotine and Flavouring, otherwise known as e-liquid. Designed as a safer alternative to traditional cigarettes, electronic cigarettes provide the nicotine ‘fix’ with none of the dangerous chemicals and side effects found in analogues.
Electronic Cigarette Starter Kit:
An Electronic Cigarette Starter Kit is essentially a package containing everything you need to get started with vaping! Usually comprised of a battery (vaping device), a cartomiser/atomiser/clearomiser/tank and a mouth piece or drip tip.
Basically, this is the flavoured juice we vape… A mixture of Propylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Flavouring and Nicotine.
This means the particular flavour(s) of your e-liquid e.g. “I’m vaping apple and cinnamon flavour”.
When you flood your tank (atomiser) you’ll typically notice a gurgling sound and reduced performance. Flooding most often occurs when you overfill your tank or get e-liquid in the chimney section of your atomiser.
Formaldehyde is a carcinogen that according to recent studies is produced when vaping at extreme temperatures. The chemical has been scientifically proven to have adverse health effects over a long period of time.
Mechanical mods sometimes use a specifically designed fuse to prevent potential battery failure.
This refers to a Clapton coil which has two or more wires in the core. Conversely a standard Clapton coil has only a one wire core.
The Genesis atomiser differs from a typical RBA. The Genesis uses steel mesh as a wick rather than silica or cotton. This steel mesh coil sits at the top of the tank with e-liquid being delivered through the process of osmosis.
Not a saying you hear much in your local vape shop but glassomiser refers to clearomisers/tanks that employ glass for the tank rather than plastic. For example, the Kangertech Subtank has a glass tank.
An extended drip-tip, so named because of the resemblance they share with a goose. Goose Necks come in a large variety of colours, shapes and sizes.
A variety of screw commonly found in atomiser posts. These screws have a pointed tip allowing for wires to be properly secured in the coil deck.
Heatsinks sit just below the tank or atomiser and are designed to dissipate the heat created by the atomiser. They essentially allow for greater airflow to your atomiser.
This term refers to the method of placing your e-liquid in a hot environment in order to speed up the steeping process.
A material that can be used to wick your coil. If you prefer the more natural approach then hemp as a wicking material has no chemicals or additives.
High Resistance (HR):
An atomiser with a higher ohm rating. This allows vapers to apply greater voltage levels to the coil they’re using.
To take a ‘hit’ or inhale vapour from your device.
Hot spots on vaping coils are characterised by spots of increased glow on the coil. This usually indicates that the coil hasn’t been wrapped properly or evenly. Hot spots are typically a cause of dry hits.
High Voltage. A device that operates above the typical 3.7 volts. As a general rule of thumb, high voltage devices shouldn’t be used with standard batteries due to potential battery failure.
A mod that employs a dual battery setup connected in series, or one that’s been modified to allow for greater vaping power.
A tank and mod that are designed to fit seamlessly together. With a hybrid mod the atomiser fires directly off the positive contact of the battery.
A rechargeable battery made from Lithium Ion Cobalt.
A rechargeable battery made from Lithium Ion Manganese.
The process of breathing in that sweet, sweet vapour.
Temperature control mods use Joules as a measurement of power.
Simply put, another way to say e-liquid.
Kanthal Wire (Kanthal A1):
A brand of wire used in coil building. Typically sold on spools for rebuildables (RBA’s/RDA’s), Kanthal comes in a variety of gauges (thickness) and resistances. Kanthal A1 is a specific grade of Kanthal wire that seems to be the most popular choice for vapers.
A Kick is a device that sits between your battery and your mechanical mod’s spring. It essentially allows for a mechanical mod to be converted into a variable wattage device, while simultaneously increasing safety. An adjustable kick is typically used between 8W and 15W.
The term Kick can also be used to describe the throat hit experienced while vaping. For example, “This juice has a lovely kick to it”
Quite frequently (frustratingly), e-juice will leak out the bottom of the tank you’re using. Be warned, juice that leaks from your clearomisers/atomiser can run down onto your battery and cause a shortage.
An acronym for “light emitting diode”. This light can be found on the end of cig-a-like devices and resembles the traditional cherry glow on the end of a cigarette.
A rechargeable battery made from Lithium Polymer. Typically the battery of choice in internal battery devices.
Lithium Ion Batteries (Li-Ion):
A type of rechargeable battery that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. Commonly considered one of the most versatile and high quality batteries on the market.
Another way to refer to e-liquid/e-juice.
Low Resistance (LR):
Coils can be built with lower resistances in order to produce greater amounts of vapour. Typically speaking, lower resistance coils are anything under 1 ohm. Be warned though, the lower the resistance the greater the drain on your battery.
A lung hit refers to how a user inhales the vapour produced by their atomiser. Lung hit simply refers to the act of inhaling the vapour straight to the lungs, as opposed to inhaling the vapour into the mouth first. Also associated with the strength of nicotine in your e-liquid, the higher the nic strength the greater the lung hit.
A unit of measurement to denote power (1/1000th of an amp to be precise). This unit is most often seen in reference to the output of batteries/chargers.
Simply put, a large coil in contrast with a micro coil. Macro coils characteristically have a larger diameter and a much larger surface area to that of a micro coil. The increased surface area increases the amount of vapour produced.
An acronym for milliampere-hour, this term is used to describe the capacity or battery life of a battery. The higher the mAh rating is on a battery the longer it will generally last before needing a recharge.
This is the term used to describe the ability to simply turn off your vaping device. Therefore, this makes the device safer to carry in a pocket while preventing accidental firing. Most devices can be shut off by clicking the firing button five times.
Mechanical Mod (Mech Mod):
A mechanical mod is basically a vaping device without protection circuitry, otherwise known as unregulated. Essentially, this is often just a metal tube, a battery, a connector and a firing button. Due to the lack of safety features or circuitry it’s essential to take care when building your coil, specifically with regards to the final resistance.
A micro coil is a coil wrapped specifically with the ‘wraps’ touching.
This term can be used to refer to the modification of a non vaping related item to be used as a vaporiser. In recent years, the term mod is also commonly used to describe a vaping device that doesn’t resemble traditional tobacco cigarettes. For example… Box-mod, tube-mod etc
Mouth to lung (MTL):
The term used to describe the act of drawing vapour into your mouth before inhaling into your lungs. For example, the way you would smoke a traditional cigarette. Usually associated with lower power devices using higher resistance coils.
Nichrome is a type of resistant wire used in coil building, generally only when building for a variable wattage/voltage vaping device. With a lower resistance than Kanthal, a Nichrome coil will heat up much faster but it’s not as flexible or easy to build with.
Nickel is another resistant wire type and was actually the first wire to be used in temperature control devices. Positives include a low resistance and fast ramp up time. However, Nickel is extremely flexible wire and can lose its shape easily.
With respect to vaping, Nicotine is a toxic, colourless or slightly yellow liquid we add to our e-liquid. Nicotine is available in various strengths, with some even opting to vape nicotine free e-liquid. Just remember to handle with extreme care as nicotine is highly toxic.
Simply put, your nicotine level is the amount of nicotine within your e-liquid. While there are plenty of different strengths available, this really boils down to personal preference! The nicotine level within your e-liquid is generally measured in mg per ml (mg/ml) or as a percentage value. For example, 8mg of nicotine per ml or 0.8% nicotine.
A Nicotine shot is a 10ml bottle of flavourless nicotine which you’d add to your e-liquid or shortfill bottle. The nicotine is suspended in either PG or VG, or a combination of the two. The most commonly available Nicotine Shot strength is 18mg/ml. Check out our Nicotine Shot and Shortfill Calculator to calculate the perfect mix using Nicotine Shots! Or for more information about Nicotine Shots and Shortfill bottles, take a look here!
Common acronym for what’s known as ‘Nicotine Replacement Therapy’. Basically, the term for the process of getting your nicotine ‘fix’ from means other than tobacco.
This is the term used to describe a measure of resistance, with the higher the ohms, the more resistance. Therefore, a lower resistance coil will heat faster and provide increased vapour production. For more information take a look at our Guide to Ohm’s Law or swing by our custom built Ohm’s Law Calculator!
A type of wicking material, organic cotton is easy to work with and provides amazing flavour.
Batteries are placed into a mod parallel to each other, increasing battery life. In addition, this set-up also increases the ‘mAh’ rating while maintaining the voltage.
A feature on certain vaping devices that allows you to vape while charging.
This is a style of electronic cigarette, similar in appearance to a ball point pen…
Personal Vaporiser (PV):
This is just another name for an Electronic Cigarette.
The term used to describe the act of saturating your wick to avoid a dry hit. This is done by either dripping a few drops of e-liquid directly on the coil, or taking a draw on the drip tip without firing the coil.
Propylene Glycol (PG):
One of two main ingredients used in e-liquid, PG is used to provide a ‘throat hit’ to simulate the feeling we get when smoking tobacco. PG is also a great flavour carrier, which is why it’s more common for flavourings and nicotine to have a PG base.
This is a type of battery with a small electronic circuit that protects the battery against overcharging, short circuit, over discharge etc. As a result, these batteries are considered safe to use in your vaping device.
Semi-synthetic fibres made from processed wood pulp used as a wicking material. Rayon is incredibly efficient as a wick and is known for producing a full, clean flavour.
The acronym for a Rebuildable Atomiser; a ‘tank’ that doesn’t support pre-built or ‘stock’ coils and requires you to build and wick your own.
The term used to describe a Rebuildable Dripping Atomiser. Similar to the above RBA, except it doesn’t hold a reserve of e-liquid. Therefore, you drip e-juice directly onto the coil as often as needed.
Otherwise known as RBA’s, these are essentially a build deck and a tank section to hold e-liquid, without the possibility of using pre-built or ‘stock’ coils. Requires the user to build and wick your own coils, which allows for a customised vaping experience!
A regulated mod is a device that includes a control chipand some level of UI interface in terms of a display allowing the user to control the output wattage of the device. Also provides safety features such as low battery cut-off, short or open circuit protection etc making them far safer than a mechanical mod.
Measured in ohms, the resistance of your coil determines the voltage/wattage you can apply. The resistance of your coil will have a significant impact on the vapour and flavour produced.
The type of wire used in your coil. Standard wire types include Kanthal, Nickel, Nichrome or Stainless Steel. When a current is applied through the wire, it heats your coil and bingo… A lung full of sweet, dense vapour!
Restricted Direct to Lung (RDL)
Very similar to DTL, sometimes written as RDTL, where vapour is taken directly into the lungs while drawing on the mouthpiece but the draw is tighter (more restrictive). Normally achieved by reducing the airflow on the tank to increase the tightness of the draw.
Ribbon wire has a flat cross section as opposed to round, like standard wire. As a result, Ribbon wire is commonly used in more advanced or exotic coil builds.
The acronym for a Rebuildable Tank Atomiser; essentially the best of both worlds! You can either use a pre-built coil or build and wick your own on the rebuildable deck included. Pre-built coils come in specific resistances, however if you want to customise your vape you can build your own badass coil builds!
This is a feature in certain vaping devices that detects when you’re inhaling and provides power to your coil. As a result, those of us too lazy to lift a finger don’t need to worry about pressing the firing button…
This is the term used to refer to batteries wired into a mod in ‘series’. By placing the batteries in series, we get increased voltage output but the same capacity as a single battery.
A term used to describe someone that is becoming addicted to buying multiple vape devices, always wanting to get the latest and greatest mod, pod or tank that’s being released. (sums me up to a tee!).
Shortfills are bottles of nicotine free e-liquid in varying PG/VG ratios with increased flavour percentages. These are sold in a bottle that’s “short filled” to allow enough space to add Nicotine Shots.
This is a type of wicking material with a high melting point. Silica is typically used in pre-built or ‘stock’ coils.
The term used to describe an electronic chip found in high end vaping devices. The Smart Chip provides additional features and allows you to customise your vaping experience.
Squonk vaping devices have a modified 510 connection, whereby e-liquid is fed through a tube straight to the coil from below. As a result, these are also often referred to as a ‘bottom feeder’.
The act of using additional batteries to increase the power output over a single battery.
Stainless Steel Mesh:
Another wicking material, this is effectively a sheet of mesh rolled into a rope or ‘cable’ like wick. Not recommended for beginners because it’s not the easiest wicking material to use. However, if set up correctly, this wicking material can provide incredibly immaculate flavour.
Everything you need to get started with vaping in one convenient kit! A standard starter kit is likely to come with a basic vaping device, an atomiser and a charging cable or battery.
This is the term used to describe the process of improving the taste of your e-liquid with time, heat, etc. Giving your e-liquid a good shake is the most basic steeping method. For more information, please take a look at our definitive guide to steeping your e-liquid.
Vaping with a coil resistance lower than 1ohm but often lower than 0.5ohms, specifically to increase vapour production. Sub-ohm vaping has exploded in the vaping community in recent years!
That perfect hit! The ‘just right’ blend of wattage, voltage and resistance needed to achieve the perfect vape. On my 0.3ohm Clapton coil, the e-liquid I’m currently vaping (Thug Juice by MBV) hits the ‘sweet spot’ for me at around 35 watts…
The term used to describe the act of dripping directly onto the coil and inhaling the vapour produced without the use of a drip tip.
A tank is essentially a clearomiser with a larger e-liquid capacity, housing the heating element, wick and chimney. In terms of the heating element; a tank can contain either a ‘stock’ coil or a build deck.
Temperature Control (TC):
A feature found in most modern regulated vaping devices. TC automatically adjusts the voltage/wattage to provide a consistent temperature. Requires Nickel (NI) or Titanium (Ti) wire/coils.
The last thing you want to happen to your battery… Put simply, this is an uncontrollable rise in temperature that can result in the explosion of your battery. This can be caused by a short circuit, overcharging, damage to the battery itself etc.
The feeling you get in the back of your throat, dependent on the type of e-liquid your vaping. Those of you quitting the analogues may want to simulate the harsher throat hit with a higher PG liquid. Personally, I prefer a smoother vape using maximum VG e-juice.
A coil build using a single strand of Kanthal with a strand of Ribbon wire wrapped around it. Flavour and vapour production are excellent with this coil build, in my humble opinion…
A type of wire used to build a coil, specifically on temperature control devices. Good crisp flavour with a higher resistance than certain other wire types. However, there are concerns regarding the safety of Titanium wire so be sure to do a little research yourself!
Tobacco Products Directive (TPD):
A set of regulations which came into force in May 2017 which imposed restrictions on the sale of all vape related products.
The term used to describe the filling of your tank to full capacity.
As you’d expect, this refers to three coils used in conjunction. While this provides far greater flavour and vapour production, the flipside is a greater drain on your battery.
A cylindrical shaped vaping device. A standard design for most Mechanical Mods.
A charger you can plug directly into a USB power source, such as a laptop for example. Normally a cable you plug directly into your vaping device, however this can also refer to a separate charger used to charge external batteries.
Essentially, a type of battery without protection circuitry. As a result, you need to be mindful of overheating, short circuiting or overcharging. Generally much cheaper than the protected alternative.
The term used to describe the action of inhaling vapour from a personal vaporiser – “to vape or not to vape, that is the question”! Please take a look at our beginners guide to vaping if you’re just starting out and want to learn more!
You and I my friend… The term used to describe those of us who use a personal vaporiser.
Too much of a good thing! Basically, the loss of flavour you experience when vaping one flavour too often. Your taste buds are desensitised to that flavour and it’s time to switch up those juices!
Just another term for electronic cigarette, vaping mod etc.
Sometimes referred to as ‘clouds’, this is the simulated smoke produced as a result of heating your e-juice in the saturated wick.
Simply the term used to describe the amount of vapour produced.
One of the main ingredients in e-liquid; VG is a viscous (thick) liquid that provides the dense vapour we all know and love! VG provides less of a throat hit than PG but doesn’t carry flavour as efficiently. It’s possible to mix using 100% VG for those of you with a PG Intolerance.
A safety feature found on most personal vaporisers, vent holes are designed to prevent your battery overheating.
If you place too much demand on your battery, you run the risk of the battery overheating or ‘venting’. Obviously not good for your battery!
Yep you guessed it… A coil placed vertically! Generally, a vertical coil will improve airflow and potentially flavour as the coil is much closer to the chimney/drip tip.
This denotes the amount of power you vape at. Voltage paired with resistance = wattage.
There’s no easy way to say this… One of my favourite pastimes; Vooping is simply vaping while you poop. If you haven’t tried this, you haven’t lived!
VV (Variable Voltage):
A feature that allows you to control the voltage output of your vaping device.
VW (Variable Wattage):
Similar to the VV above, this feature allows you to control the wattage output of your device.
The term used to describe a measurement of power. Essentially, the power distributed through your atomiser. As a general rule of thumb for you cloud chasers; the higher the watts the more vapour is produced.
Absorbent material placed in direct contact with your atomiser. Basically the wick soaks up your e-liquid ready to be vaporised by your coil.
As above. There are literally dozens of wicking materials and methods used, each with specific benefits in terms of vapour/flavour production. Please check our wicking guide for more info!
Refers to the resistant material used to build a coil. E.g Kanthal, Nichrome etc.
The term used to describe a single revolution of a wire in the coil building process. The term is derived from ‘wrapping’ the wire around a tool to create the coil shape. Just remember, the higher the number of wraps, the higher the resistance!
And there you have it ladies and gents! We hope you found our vaping glossary helpful! In the ever changing world of vaping terms, we’ll no doubt be updating this vaping glossary regularly! Please feel free to share or comment below.
If there are any terms that we’ve missed, please do let us know so we can include them in this glossary to help keeping it up to date.